Orbelisk is another design emanating from the raft created when I printed a table bracket. It was inspired by a glass object I saw in a home decor magazine I read while sitting in a doctor’s waiting room.
To obtain size variations, I simply scaled the model in Cura slicing software. It was printed with 3D-Fuel, Workday PLA -Island Fuschia.
The 3D printed cabinet I designed almost 2 years ago is now a reality. When I struggled to finish printing parts on my RepRap Prusa I3 printer, a voice inside me said, “You are not going to be able to finish this.” I refused to listen to that voice. I struggled to find a way to print level, wide, flat parts. After months of trying, when nothing worked, I bought a different 3D printer, a Creality3D CR-10 Mini. I had a bit of a struggle with that one too in the beginning, but I was able to work things out and finish printing all the parts.
The cabinet measures 19″ in width, 11″ in depth, and 27 1/4″ in height (without casters). I used PLA/PHA natural and light green filaments by 3D Printlife, exclusively, to print the cabinet. My experience with table brackets and my hamper stool has shown me that PLA/PHA works well with wood. It has the strength and pliability to handle the contractions and expansion of pine wood under moist and dry conditions.
The cabinet was constructed in what I have termed wood channel style. Small diameter hardwood dowels align individual pieces by filling cavities. Wood channel style reduces the need for hardware, filament amounts, and printing time.
This is the first iteration of the cabinet. Hopefully, I will have completed a second iteration in a couple of months. A list of past cabinet posts follows as well as renders of how the cabinet would look in other PLA/PHA colors.
I have designed another table! The first table I designed has been serving as an entry table for the last 1 1/2 years. I usually place light items such as mail and keys on top of it, but it has supported 10 to 25 pound boxes on occasion.
I used Ocean Blue PLA from Push Plastic to make the display table. The table is 13 inches square and 24 inches tall.
One of the things I learned from stopping my prints after the first few layers is that those layers are strong and flexible. PLA becomes more brittle as the layers increase. I felt those first few layers would make a good backing for a cabinet. To test my idea, I made four parts of a placemat and glued them together with hot glue. It worked!
I will use the same method to make a backing for a cabinet; the next project after the hamper stool or at least it is now. I am working on a lamp design now as well. The lamp won’t take as long to 3D print as the cabinet, but I have already designed key parts for the cabinet. I don’t know. I will see how it goes.
While I am waiting for parts that needed to be reordered for the hamper stool project, I printed a jewelry box I designed and re-designed a few times. I know it would have been prudent to print the casings for the hamper stool during this time because there are so many of them, but what’s the fun in that?
The jewelry box consists of four parts; base, top, top drawer, and bottom drawer. It can be hung on the wall with four Command Hanging Strips (that’s what I did) or there are keyhole openings in the back for screws. The top can be attached to the base with glue. The top drawer was about 2 mm too tall at the top when I printed it. I made the adjustment to the .stl file, but I have not printed it again for testing. In the photo, the top drawer is at the bottom and the bottom drawer is at the top.
I made the ring holders using foam rollers and 1 1/2″ velvet ribbon. I attached the ribbon to the roller with hot glue. I was perplexed about how I would go about getting ring holders the proper size to fit in the openings. I searched online for a while, finding many, but none that were the right size. Then I wondered if I could make them myself. I searched YouTube and lo and behold, there were many videos about how to make them. The one I found to be the most informative is below.
I am going to make one more print project with this mint filament before I change to the clear filament needed for the hamper stool project. I will post about that project next.
Today I got around to printing a second version of a cup I designed. It has the map of the world around it. The stereolithography file for the cup looks like a solid piece. It must be printed using the spiral vase method. The cup bends when squished, but holds its shape.
I couldn’t get parts of the world map to stay above the surface with the first iteration. It took a while before I figured out how to keep it from caving in when it was rounded. I continued to try different things until it worked. I am happy with the results.